SAINT LAURENT RUSSIAN COLLECTION 1976 PATCH
Fitted, double-breasted blazer jacket has notched collar, wide lapels, patch pockets, extended padded shoulders, full length sleeves with buttoned vents and turn back cuffs. The envelope description reads: Misses’ Three-Piece Suit. Vogue 2598 is a pattern for pleated skirt, cuffed trousers, and double-breasted jacket with optional ribbon trim (see Paco’s post here): Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta. The exhibition catalogue includes this photo of the dress in the original collection presentation: A model shows the navy dress from Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring 1971 Libération collection. Semi-fitted sleeveless slip has back zipper closing. Full length leg-o-mutton sleeves with pleated cap have zipper closing. Semi-fitted, slightly flared dress, mid-knee length, has jewel neckline, front button and loop closing, front gathered into forward shoulder seam and topstitch trim. Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ Dress. Note the new high puffed sleeves tight round the wrists, with just enough flare and tiny ball buttons”: Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta. The editorial text reads, “From Yves Saint Laurent, a slither of crepe. Frank Horvat photographed the navy original for the August/September issue of Vogue Pattern Book. Vogue 2571 is a puff-sleeved dress trimmed down the front with tiny buttons. Vogue Patterns licensed two patterns from the Spring 1971 couture. “Lips” print dress from Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Harpers & Queen, early April 1971. Poppy accessories from Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, British Vogue, March 1971. L’Officiel was one of the only magazines to put the collection on the cover British Vogue and Harpers & Queen opted for related Rive Gauche looks instead: Yves Saint Laurent couture ensemble, L’Officiel, March 1971. Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1971 haute couture ( Libération), L’Officiel 1000 modèles hors série, 2002. (See Suzy Menkes for Vogue and Joelle Diderich for WWD.) Like the designer’s Beat collection for Dior, it brought youthful street style to couture, prompting a similar backlash but ultimately succeeding in terms of broader influence. The wartime silhouettes of thirty years previous dominated for day, with evening gowns featuring prints based on ancient Greek erotic art. Inspired by the women of occupied Paris, Saint Laurent’s “Forties” collection interpreted vintage styles for the younger generation-subversive historicism with an edge of camp. A catalogue (in French only) is available from Flammarion. Curated by Olivier Saillard of the Palais Galliera, Yves Saint Laurent 1971: la collection du scandale may be seen at the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent through July 19th, 2015. Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring 1971 haute couture collection, Libération, is currently the focus of a major Paris exhibition.
Yves Saint Laurent 1971: la collection du scandale.
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